I remember downloading a document on the Taylor method of re-stringing guitars. I thought I should share this information for those of you who don’t know it yet.
When it comes to changing guitar strings, of course there are a lot of ways to skin a cat – but I really think Taylor has a winner with their particular method. To quote from the document:
Indeed, there are as many variations on the process of changing steel strings as there are players, and not all methods are equally effective. Some interfere with tuning (too many wraps) and others make strings susceptible to breakage (too few wraps). Developed over decades of experience, the current Taylor Guitars method has proven to provide outstanding results for all steel-string guitars.
As I tested using a set of strings from my newly purchased bulk-pack, I re-strung my Ovation Celebrity. It never ceases to amaze me how consistent and flawless this method of re-stringing is.
Length
One [usual] problem is figuring out the length needed for a given string to have enough wraps around the post. Just remember these two points, and you should be good:
- For the 3 bass strings (
low E,A,D), cut the strings one whole post away from the intended post. Meaning if you plan to insert on the post nearest the nut, stretch the string taut and cut it at the 2nd (middle) post. - For the 3 treble strings, (
G,B,high E), cut the strings 1½ posts after the intended post. Given the same situation where you plan to insert to the post nearest the nut, you cut 1½ posts away (or at the middle of the second and last post)
You may notice that I’m assuming you’re using a 3×3 machine head setup. For inline (electric guitar) machine heads, of course the posts are closer together, so measuring relative to the posts won’t work. In this case, the proper measurements used above were roughly 1½ (bass) and 2 (treble) inches respectively.
Insertion
A good practice for inserting strings into the peg head is to turn the peghead s that the holes are on a 45-degree, mirrored angles 1 Assuming that the line of reference is in line with the neck. . What does this mean?
- Assuming your guitar is standing straight up (or on a stand), one side of the holes (lower holes) should be facing downwards towards the body, and outwards, away from the headstock.
- If your angles are correct, the other side of the holes (top) naturally would now be facing upwards, away from the body, and inwards into the headstock.
Remembering the orientation I mentioned above, inserting the strings into the post holes would be from the top side. You enter from the top, but your motion is similar to #1: downwards towards the body, and outwards, away from the headstock. The reason for which is that the holes are pretty big compared to the strings (especially the treble strings) so the string will tend to move and slip a bit if it hasn’t folded 2 All strings will eventually “fold” when the tension from the pull from the neck forces the string to bend on the corner of the (post’s) hole, where it then begins winding around the post itself. yet. Inserting from the top ensures that you’ll have to fold it yourself before winding, which serves as a rudimentary “lock,” preventing premature slippage.
The document says to let the string protrude about 1/8 of an inch before winding. I personally am not comfortable with such a short length… what if it [the slack] accidentally gets pushed inside? ESPECIALLY the treble strings! I use about ¼ of an inch (or roughly 5mm/0.5cm).
Final notes
When you start winding with these lengths, you’ll find your restringing much faster (even without a peg winder). Not to mention very clean and uniform. It is indeed a very efficient and fool-proof way. If done correctly, you’ll get roughly 2-3 wraps for the bass, and 3-4 wraps for the treble strings. This can be guaranteed every single time.
