WARNING: these posts have not yet been proof-read. It’s difficult to find decently priced internet connections here. The actual posting time of these entries is April 22, in Jerusalem – in the Olive Tree hotel… with free WiFi!

2005.04.14

*Pilgrimage Day 5*

Day 5

The Plan: Edfu Temple

Not much done today (which is great since I finally get to write these journals, and process some of my photos). We took a kalesa ride to Edfu Temple, another Greco-Roman temple – which continues the story of Isis and Osiris, but this time as a tribute to, and story of their son Horus, (who is represented as a falcon-headed figure) and his revenge.

Assholes

What is interesting here is how these blasted Egyptians like screwing with the tourists. You get off the boat and they “mark” you by giving you a present (sort of like how dogs pee on their territory), even if you didn’t ask for it (usually a turban, or some other headgear). You try to return it, and they tell you to hold on to it so that when you return you will visit their shop. They also make you promise to only buy from them – even before you get the chance to visit the Edfu shops themselves.

This really annoyed me since I didn’t intend to shop at all. And this idiot Abdulah comes to me and tries to put it on my head (of course in a friendly way) I offered it back since I had my own headgear on, but then he said to just keep for now and return it later. He then proceeded to tell me to promise that I’d buy from him and only him, to which I said “We’ll see” – but he insisted I give my word in the most annoying way possible: by simply not listening to what I’ve just said. Anyways I said yes just to get it over with with no intention of buying anyway (so I’ll probably just visit his shop) and come up with some excuse not to buy somthing.

So we went off to Edfu (which I don’t have to expound on since the first paragraph says it all), and this temple had made me do a double take, since it was strikingly familiar from Abu Simbel.

Anyways, we come back and here Abdullah, sure enough, was wating for me. So I visit his shop, check around, and politely said that I’ve already found something in the boat for our Egyptian costume party, and that unless he had one similar to it, I’d have to say no. Then he pissed me off by saying:

“You promised you buy from me, and I gave you a present.”

To which I answered:

“I promised to check your shop and no one elses. And that present of yours, you forced on me, I don’t remember asking for it and even tried to give it back.”

Then he really ticked me off by saying:

“Then just give me a present… or 5 Egyptian pounds”

What he had just said made me want to hit him right then and there. What nerve this asshole has to force you to do something you never agreed to in the first place and then expect anything out of it. And considering it’s how all Egyptian merchants operate with tourists in that area, I’m guessing the fuckers actually expect money wether or not they get to sell something.

I’ve already learned from that whole camel experience in Saqqara. Which Ironically, turned out to be a good thing since we were supposed to ride camels in Giza that same day, but one thing led to another and that whole camel riding session never materialized. Now on day 5, in the whole group, only I was able to ride a Camel hehehehe.

I just left, saying loudly in the street on my way out “I’m sorry, but you ain’t gonna swindle me into anything!” I heard him behind me uttering a sentence with the word “harass” included in it – which probably means he understood that I was considering what he did a form of harrasment, since he didn’t bother me afterwards. He did approach me again trying to be friendly, he probably thought I was going to report him to the guards nearby or something, but I just ignored him and went straight into the Liberty.

All this in 2 hours (including the temple trip) – then we were stuck in the Liberty killing time, I think this is where the trip to Luxor officially begins… which means two straight nights being trapped in this vessel, eating their horrendous food.

Costume Party

On the bright side, we got outfits for the Egyptian Costume Party. Costed quite a hefty amount (20 US dollars) considering that it might only be used once (unless I try some crazy shit at home) – But Abdullah was selling his garments for like 300 pounds (roughly twice the amount of 20USD).

This is the second time in my life I’m going to wear a costume. First time was during nursery school (yes, that school that kicked me out – I’m a nursery dropout, can you believe it?) – I was the Devil then, with a fork made from illustration board lined with aluminum foil. I was totally in my element.

The costume party was pretty fun, I was able to fiddle around more with my camera settings to overcome the dark. 50mm at f1.8 EV stopped down by 2 and FEC stopped up by 2.

After the party and tons of picture taking, we relaxed at the deck till about 2am, chatting with our guide, and listening to some music… leaving us only 3 hours tops for sleeping till our wake up call the next day.