I remember downloading a document on the Taylor method of re-stringing guitars. I thought I should share this information for those of you who don’t know it yet.<\/p>\n
When it comes to changing guitar strings, of course there are a lot of ways to skin a cat – but I really think Taylor has a winner with their particular method. To quote from the document:<\/p>\n
\nIndeed, there are as many variations on the process of changing steel strings as there are players, and not all methods are equally effective. Some interfere with tuning (too many wraps) and others make strings susceptible to breakage (too few wraps). Developed over decades of experience, the current Taylor Guitars method has proven to provide outstanding results for all steel-string guitars.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n
As I tested using a set of strings from my newly purchased bulk-pack,<\/a> I re-strung my Ovation Celebrity.<\/em> It never ceases to amaze me how consistent and flawless this method of re-stringing is.<\/p>\n\n
Length<\/h2>\n
One [usual] problem is figuring out the length needed<\/strong> for a given string to have enough wraps around the post. Just remember these two points, and you should be good:<\/p>\n
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- For the 3 bass strings (
low E<\/code>,A<\/code>,D<\/code>), cut the strings one whole post<\/strong> away from the intended post. Meaning if you plan to insert on the post nearest the nut, stretch the string taut<\/em> and cut it at the 2nd (middle) post.<\/li>\n- For the 3 treble strings, (
G<\/code>,B<\/code>,high E<\/code>), cut the strings 1½ posts<\/strong> after the intended post. Given the same situation where you plan to insert to the post nearest the nut, you cut 1½<\/strong> posts away (or at the middle of the second and last post)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\nYou may notice that I’m assuming you’re using a 3×3 machine head setup. For inline (electric guitar) machine heads, of course the posts are closer together, so measuring relative to the posts won’t work. In this case, the proper measurements used above were roughly 1½<\/strong> (bass) and 2<\/strong> (treble) inches respectively.<\/p>\n
Insertion<\/h2>\n
A good practice for inserting strings into the peg head is to turn the peghead s that the holes are on a 45-degree, mirrored<\/em> angles 1 <\/sup><\/a>Assuming that the line of reference is in line with the neck. <\/span><\/span>
![bulk-pack,<\/a> I re-strung my Ovation Celebrity.<\/em> It never ceases to amaze me how consistent and flawless this method of re-stringing is.<\/p>\n\nLength<\/h2>\nOne [usual] problem is figuring out the length needed<\/strong> for a given string to have enough wraps around the post. Just remember these two points, and you should be good:<\/p>\n\nFor the 3 bass strings (low E<\/code>, A<\/code>, D<\/code>), cut the strings one whole post<\/strong> away from the intended post. Meaning if you plan to insert on the post nearest the nut, stretch the string taut<\/em> and cut it at the 2nd (middle) post.<\/li>\nFor the 3 treble strings, (G<\/code>, B<\/code>, high E<\/code>), cut the strings 1½ posts<\/strong> after the intended post. Given the same situation where you plan to insert to the post nearest the nut, you cut 1½<\/strong> posts away (or at the middle of the second and last post)<\/li>\n<\/ol>\nYou may notice that I’m assuming you’re using a 3×3 machine head setup. For inline (electric guitar) machine heads, of course the posts are closer together, so measuring relative to the posts won’t work. In this case, the proper measurements used above were roughly 1½<\/strong> (bass) and 2<\/strong> (treble) inches respectively.<\/p>\nInsertion<\/h2>\nA good practice for inserting strings into the peg head is to turn the peghead s that the holes are on a 45-degree, mirrored<\/em> angles 1 <\/sup><\/a>Assuming that the line of reference is in line with the neck. <\/span><\/span>](\"http:\/\/static.flickr.com\/49\/191409805_79cf5b2cb1_o.jpg\"){kind=link}